Sabah Most Wanted

A second look at Kota Kinabalu

I’ve only been to Kota Kinabalu once in the early 1990s and, honestly, it wasn’t a very pleasant experience. We went during a weekend when there were several conventions ongoing and all the hotels were full. We had to stay at a seedy motel for a night before we could transfer to a real hotel. We took a jet boat to a nearby island and I became sick afterward. So I vowed never to set foot on Kota Kinabalu again. But this year, one of the things I promised to do was step out of my comfort zone and do things I wouldn’t normally do.
The biggest mosque in KK is surroundedby water and trees. One of those things was agreeing to go to KK, as everyone calls the capital state of Sabah, for the second time.
So what did I realize during this visit? It is always good to give someone or something a second chance.
The first thing I noticed about Kota Kinabalu was the progress that had taken place since I was last there. This was evident in the number of construction projects going on. The second most noticeable thing was cleanliness. Everywhere we went, it was very clean. No spit, cigarette butts or candy wrappers on the streets. The public restrooms were very clean, too, and always stocked with toilet paper and hand wash. Most of the restrooms had handheld bidets. The restrooms, even in places far from the city proper, were very tourist-friendly.
AirAsia Zest flies three times weeklybetween Manila and Kota Kinabalu andhas the most number of flights betweenthe Philippines and Malaysia. The press tour organized by AirAsia Zest and the Sabah Tourism Board wasn’t your usual press junket. We refused the first activity, a shopping tour, because Grandis Hotel was “attached” to the Suriah Sabah Shopping Mall anyway (which meant we could do our shopping another time) and we preferred to rest or take a nap.
At around 5 in the afternoon, the group proceeded to Mari Mari Cultural Village, which is really a museum that shows the houses and gives a glimpse of five of Sabah’s 32 tribes. The tour, which costs about P2,000 plus, includes a tour of the village (this lasted about an hour and a half), a cultural dance show and a hearty buffet dinner.
I liked how authentic and natural everything seemed, from crossing the rickety but obviously sturdy bridge that signaled the start of the tour to the scary ambush of the headhunters (which we were actually warned about). Aside from tours of the houses and an explanation of how each tribe lived, the experience provided “real” glimpses into the lives of the tribes. A number of the houses had the single ladies’ rooms in the mezzanine. The stairs were usually detachable. After the girls had gone to their rooms, the head of the household would hide the stairs to protect the maidens from being abducted or sexually assaulted. The models or guides also showed how to make a fire, cookies and even rice wine.

Adventure time

Kota Kinabalu’s beaches aresome of its main attractions. The following day was even more exciting. Most of the members of the press tour went on the Coral Flyer, a 250-meter zip line, which connects the islands of Pulau Sapi and Pulau Gaya. At Pulau Gaya, where we had a barbecue buffet lunch, guests can avail of several water-based activities such as snorkeling and sea walking (walking underwater while wearing a dive helmet.
For obvious reasons (age and health), I didn’t take part in the two activities and instead opted to enjoy the sun and the beach. The restrooms at Pulau Gaya weren’t as clean as the other places but this, I think, was because of the volume of visitors and not a lapse in the resort’s sanitation services.

The river cruise

We took a two-hour drive to the Klias Wetlands, which is surrounded by a mangrove forest preserve. After a snack of fried bananas and coffee or tea, we boarded a small motor boat to look at Proboscis monkeys hanging from trees. The only problem was it rained and we were forced to turn back.
The Coral Flyer, a 250-meter zip line,connects the islands of Palau Sapi andPalau Gaya. The Proboscis monkey, which is characterized by its big and pendulous nose, has been named the official mascot for Visit Malaysia Year 2014. A native to the heartland of Borneo (East Malaysia), this mammal has some of the most unique qualities that set its biological and physical features apart from other primates. As one of Asia’s largest monkey species, it possesses amazing jungle skills, from leaping off from tree and into rivers with three comical belly flops to incredible dog-paddling swimming aptitude using its partially webbed feet. Proboscis monkeys are also among the few animals to be able to walk upright at any length of time. The population of Proboscis monkeys is estimated to be 6,000 with most of them concentrated in Kinabatangan, Sukau, Sandakan, Klias and other parts of Sabah.
A day trip tour to Klias Wetlands reserve is full of wildlife. Aside from Proboscis monkeys, there are a number of bird species, Long Tail macaques or Silver Languor monkeys.
The Klias Wetlands river trip leaves from the Klias jetty at about 3pm in the afternoon as this is the time the monkeys start feeding. After dusk, according to the tour guide, there is a display of fireflies. Unfortunately, the rain prevented us from seeing that.

Food and shopping

If you love pork and expect to see a breakfast buffet with bacon and ham during your visit, Kota Kinabalu is not the place for you. But there are other culinary treats that await you.
Most of the food we had was local. Rice is a staple in every meal, along with a dry noodle dish. Usually, there are fried bananas and boiled sweet potatoes. The noodles are normally fried with vegetables, egg and chicken or seafood. A meal in Kota Kinabalu is not complete without a plate of stir fried vegetables. The cuisine is eclectic and reflects a lot of Chinese influence.
Mari Mari Cultural Villageoffers glimpses into the livesof Sabah’s many tribes. Malay cuisine makes use of a lot of spices and herbs. These include chili, white and black pepper, ginger flower, kaffir lime leaves, garam masala, star anise, lemon grass and coriander seeds.
A typical Malaysian dish is beef rendang, which is slow cooked in coconut milk and spices, allowing the meat to absorb all the spices and then to become tender. Satay is a dish of marinated, skewered and grilled meats served with peanut sauce. Malaysians also like sambal belacan, which is spicy chili with shrimp paste. This is served as a condiment.
There is a Filipino night market as there is a big Pinoy population there. The market happens every night along the waterfront opposite Le Meridien Hotel. There are thousands of vendors every night selling fish, flowers, snacks, vegetables and fruits, fresh and grilled seafood and souvenirs, including shirts and refrigerator magnets.
The Gaya Street Sunday Market is also very popular among tourists and locals alike. This is probably the best place to buy souvenirs, including arts, crafts and even antiques. Just make sure you haggle.
So would I visit Kota Kinabalu again? The answer is yes. I felt the second visit was very short, giving us little time to explore everything KK has to offer.
AirAsia Zest flies three times weekly between Manila and Kota Kinabalu and has the most number of flights between the Philippines and Malaysia, with direct flights from Clark, Cebu, Kalibo (Boracay) to Kuala Lumpur. For details on AirAsia Zest’s latest promo and announcements visit Facebook (facebook.com/airasiaphilippines) and Twitter (twitter.com/airasiaph).
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